Sardinia and Corsica: A Tale of Two Islands
When my sweetheart Brian and I set our sights on the enchanting islands of Sardinia and Corsica for an off-season getaway, little did we know we were about to embark on a culinary and cultural adventure like no other.
Just an hour apart by ferry, these islands offer a striking contrast: Sardinia, with its rugged charm and untamed landscapes, whispers stories of ancient traditions, while Corsica, polished and sophisticated, boasts a distinct French flair.
Sardinia: A Wild Italian Island Paradise
My first morning in Sardinia dawned bright and beautiful, perfectly setting the stage for my solo writing retreat. With my book, “Plenty of Husbands” nearly complete, this idyllic island was the perfect backdrop to find my inspiration. As I stepped onto the balcony of my Relais & Châteaux hotel, Petra Segreto, I was greeted by a breathtaking view: a sprawling grass lawn that dropped off into the sapphire sea, punctuated by bobbing yachts and majestic mountains in the distance.
Breakfast was a feast for the senses—scrambled eggs cooked to perfection, crispy bacon, gluten-free toast topped with creamy avocado and sumptuous salmon, and citrus sections steeped in honey. I couldn’t help but smile, even as I missed my darling Brian who was biking with friends on the other side of the island and loved ones back home. Alone but not lonely, I was the captain of my own ship, ready to navigate this beautiful experience.
That first day, I set out on a hike along the cliffs, driven by the promise of stunning views. My destination was Cala Moresca, a beach thirty minutes from my hotel. The concierge had mentioned a loop trail, but I found myself on an out-and-back trail that led me along the shore and up to the summit of a mountain. There, I encountered Capo Figari, a wireless telegraphy tower that sent signals across the sea to Italy in 1898.
After that exhilarating two-hour hike, I headed to Oasi Beach Club in Punta Marana. Renting a front-row beach chair for the day, I felt the sun warm my skin as I dipped into the crystal-clear waters. Lunch was a culinary delight: fresh tomato pasta topped with olive tapenade and a vibrant swordfish ceviche garnished with sliced kumquats and tiny beets. Paired with a crisp Sardinian Vermentino, it was pure perfection.
While I dined, I watched families enjoying time together. Italian mothers ruled like queens. It was inspiring to witness their confidence. They seemed to know the role they played without apology. The warm and loving power that’s deeply feminine.
I had arrived at the end of September, so the beach club was chill. Gone were the DJ’s thumping beats and tourists dancing on tables. I enjoyed the quiet and my latest read, “Finding Me” by Viola Davis. Back at the hotel, I took the night off with a bubble bath and an episode of “The Morning Show.” Room service delivered Ceaser Salad with slices of rotisserie chicken in a creamy and sublime dressing. This is the joy of traveling alone. There’s no one to please but yourself.
The next day, the weather turned, and I faced a perfect opportunity for reflection. Should I stroll into the nearby village or hit the gym? Opting for a walk, I embraced the gentle drizzle and trekked into San Pantaleo. I found rustic stone buildings, quiet roads and lovely shops framed by mountains. After a delicious lunch of muscles and frites at Osteria Fresco, I wrote for hours inside the hotel’s charming lobby.
One of the highlights of my Sardinian retreat was a trip aboard the Sailing Star. I joined Marco and Cindy, an adorable couple who live on their boat, along with a handful of other travelers. We navigated from one secluded beach to another, surrounded by turquoise waters that shifted to deep sapphire. The sculptural rock formations rising from the sea created a stunning backdrop, while silver and blue fish swam alongside us. It was idyllic and sunny one moment and then cloudy and cold the next, that’s the reality of September, but you also avoid the throngs of boats and tourists crowding the water ways.
Just before dinner, I checked into Athos located in the vibrant seaside town of Cannigione. The food here was exceptional; I relished fresh turbot in soy glaze with a purple potato purée. Each bite felt like a celebration. It was my daughter’s birthday—the best day of my life-when Roxy was born. I missed her as a I sat at Athos, the hip, young hotel she helped me choose for this trip. The guests were young and pretty, and the staff warm, welcoming and attentive.
I found myself returning to Molo 91 for lunch, enchanted by the view from my table. The excitement around me was palpable as delicious dishes whirled around me. I ate colossal prawns so sweet, I didn’t need dolce. Plus, mussels, clams and fresh-caught fish in a tomato broth drizzled with fruity olive oil. I walked back to the hotel in a wine haze taking in the sapphire water, people riding electric bicycles and children playing in the sand and sea. The water was so clear you could see all the way to what lies beneath--nothing is hidden.
As I wrapped up my writing retreat, I felt a deep connection to this land of natural beauty and warm, welcoming faces. Back to the hotel, in a blissful state, I sat perched on a sunbed above the infinity pool, pressing on to finish my book. Wind swept, sexy, mountainous and rugged. This is nature alive, this is Sardinia. Not only had the island provided the perfect setting to complete my book but had also reminded me of the importance of embracing both adventure and solitude.
Corsica: A French Island of Beauty
Reunited, Brian and I took the ferry to Corsica. Pulling up to the dock, we were immediately captivated by the island's ethereal beauty. The limestone cliffs soared majestically surrounded by the bluest water. Bonifacio, with its stunning views and rich history, felt like the perfect introduction to our Corsican adventure.
Introducing us to the fortress town was our blue-eyed, well-informed guide Christina. She told us about the everyday struggles of the people who lived here a long time ago. It was a daily life-or-death situation. Pirates and other rogues were always trying to breach the walls of the fortress or climb over the moat. The buildings and the architecture were specifically designed to ward off these intruders.
Bonifacio helps us to remember how difficult it once was to be human. Even with its protections-its elevated location, impossible to climb walls and armed and ready soldiers and citizens, three out of four people died of the Black Plague. Bonifacio’s impressive cemetery, which looks like a small city, is a testament to the hardy inhabitants and the reverence they have for their ancestors who perished.
After our tour, we picked up our rental car and drove to Grand Hotel Cala Rossa, a stunning seaside Relais & Châteaux property. As we navigated the winding roads, the landscape changed from scenery resembling the California Coast near Big Sur, the Garden of Eden, and at times the South of France.
Nestled amidst lush greenery, the hotel exuded tranquility. Our room was a large whitewashed sanctuary with expansive views of a beautiful bay and beach. Known for its fine white sand, crystal clear waters and pine forest, the hotel was the perfect backdrop for relaxation.
One of the highlights of our stay was a wine tour led by the charismatic Dominique of Corsica Wine Tours. We visited several vineyards, including Domaine de Tanella and Domaine Zaria, where we learned about the unique terroir of Corsica. The granite and limestone infused the wines with a distinct earthiness and minerality—making the sampling of the 15 varieties a delightful experience. Olive trees dotted the landscape adding a silvery ornamental beauty to each location we visited.
Lunch at Domaine de Peretti Della Rocca, a wine estate and small hotel with tasteful interiors and landscaping, was perfection. A lap pool spread out before rows of vines and sheep grazed in the distance. We dined on veal tartare, veal stew and ended with fresh house made strawberry sorbet. Over lunch, we learned about our guide who attended UCLA, and worked at Disney. He was a wonderful teacher and conversationalist. Regaling us with stories about Napoleon, the history of Corsica and it’s many conquerors—the Italians French and British. And of course, his knowledge of wine was monumental.
The next day the hotel arranged a boat ride for us along the turquoise waters. When the captain dropped anchor, we swam to a small beach. So refreshing! Later in the afternoon, we hike in the surrounding mountains and napped in our large, sumptuous bed. After aperitives in the hotel’s bar, we take our shoes off and walked a short distance down the beach to a waterfront restaurant called Le Ranch ‘O Plage, where we dined on fresh-caught grilled fish.
Next, we drove to Ajaccio to stay at the charming Le Maquis, a blend of old-world elegance and coastal comfort, adorned with antique furnishings collected over generations. Sipping a Corsican Spritz on the elegant terrace while overlooking the bay, I felt like I was in a dream. The ambiance became even more delightful when Tara, a local swimwear designer, and her husband Philippe, a photographer joined us. Sharing stories as the sun dipped below the horizon made for a magical evening.
The cuisine at Le Maquis was divine. On our first night, I savored a whole lobster, while Brian indulged in Iberian pork that melted in the mouth. The second night, I ate a lovely local fish while Brian reveled in a perfectly cooked sous vide steak. The service was impeccable, and our large room, with its balcony overlooking the sea, was the perfect retreat.
Our adventure continued in Ajaccio, Napoleon Bonaparte's birthplace. The city buzzed with life; its vibrant streets filled with history. Our guide, the tiny, but sturdy Catherine, was knowledgeable and engaging, sharing tales of Napoleon’s ambitious family—his eight brothers and sisters and their ruthlessly ambitious mother. Despite her power as a matriarch, it was her son Napoleon who dictated each family member’s fate—who they would marry, where thy would live, who they would rule. The paintings at the Palais Fesch told the story, a magnificent collection gifted by Napoleon’s godfather who benefited greatly by the nepotism afforded him by the Emperor.
As our time in Corsica ended, I found myself reflecting on the magic of the two islands. I realized that Sardinia and Corsica had woven themselves into the fabric of my heart. From the breathtaking cliffs of Bonifacio to the serene beauty of Cala Rossa, every moment in Corsica was a treasure. In Sardinia, I felt a sense of freedom and creativity, whether I was hiking scenic trails or enjoying quiet moments by the beach. Each island, with its unique allure left me longing to return.
