Honolulu, Hawaii: How To Live Like An Islander

I always thought of Hawaii as Disneyland for tourists, not a destination for true travelers. But, when Roxy scored a rare week off from her Hollywood job, we seized the moment and snagged low airfares from LAX to Honolulu, a $50/day rental car, and off-season hotel rates. Our mission? To dodge the tourist traps and uncover the real Hawaii. Unfortunately, our budget-friendly adventure came with an unexpected twist: Hurricane Lulu.

Fast forward to our arrival in Oahu, where the skies are anything but postcard-perfect.  We pick up our rental car and navigate through stormy traffic. After a heart-pounding 30 minutes, we finally escape the freeway and find ourselves at The Kahala Hotel and Resort, a legendary hideaway favored by presidents, international royalty, and celebrities.

The Kahala Hotel & Resort

Seeing a break in the storm, we venture to the nearby Kaimuki neighborhood, where we slurp steaming bowls of insane Vietnamese pho at The Pig and The Lady.  Chilled oysters arrive alongside crispy chicken wings drizzled in a lemongrass “money” sauce. Lastly, we eat their famous pho. Handmade rice noodles cradle finely chopped beef doused with hot beef bone broth, which cooks the meat to perfection. Surrounded by locals and shelves filled with plastic pigs and Japanese toys, we sink into the place and savor every bite.

As we step out of the restaurant, the rain comes down in torrents, and we are soaked to the bone — my tropical Ulla Johnson blouse and matching shorts clinging to me, while my favorite Marni sandals squelch with every step. Roxy’s chic Pucci headscarf reduced to a baby wipe. Who knew Oahu could be so... wet and wild?  

Overnight, the storm pounds the hotel, knocking out power across the island. Luckily, our five-star resort whips up a buffet breakfast using generators and Bunsen burners. We dive into the Japanese section, loading our plates with sticky rice topped with luscious onsen tamago — soft-boiled eggs cooked to creamy perfection. The fruit — mangos, papaya, strawberries, and pineapple — tastes like it was picked that morning.

After realizing the Japanese tourists have commandeered all the available outlets, we spend the day in our unlit room, conserving battery. Finally at 5pm, when the storm eases, we hop on the hotel’s free shuttle to Waikiki Beach.  We weave through fallen palm fronds and streetlight outages to Duke’s, a kitschy watering hole, quickly dumping overly sweet Mai Tais and Pina Coladas. Walking out to the beach, packed with tourists playing in the brown water, we’re grateful we’re not staying on this part of the island.

The atmosphere shifts at the Moana Surfrider, Waikiki’s oldest hotel, where we sip expertly crafted drinks while a guitar player strums Hawaiian tunes.  As the sun sets, Roxy feels nostalgic and reserves a couple of seats at Tokyo-based Tanaka, a teppanyaki restaurant. As the flaming onion volcano erupts, we’re transported back to Roxy’s childhood memories and birthday celebrations, savoring every delicious bite of steak and shrimp.

Tanaka of Tokyo

In the morning, the sky clears and we embark on a mission to find the island’s best poke. Our first stop is Foodland, the upscale grocery store that influencers rave about. The varieties are staggering. Like an ice cream shop, they let us sample each flavor before we buy.

After trying poke at Roy’s, Haleiwa Joe's Haiku Gardens (a Hawaiian fairyland), and the Kahala Hotel, which are all excellent, we declare Fresh Catch the winner — not only for its taste but also because the ahi is caught and served the same day.

Haleiwa Joe's Haiku Gardens

Everywhere we go, the sound of chickens clucking and crowing roosters fills the air. They’re at the gas stations, underfoot while you’re eating lunch, and squawking in the jungles during hikes. Fleeing their coops during the last hurricane (who can blame them), they’ve populated the city, each one cuter than the last.

As we drive towards the North Shore, it’s clear this isn’t Disneyland. Here people live and work. The beaches are beautiful, but there are schools, parks, and playgrounds, too. It’s as real as anywhere on the mainland, but not like the rest of America. The culture, a fusion of Japanese and Hawaiian, is as distinctive as Tahiti or Jamaica. We’re charmed by the warmth of the locals and yearn to immerse ourselves further away from Honolulu and our resort.

“Pro tip for cinephiles on a family vacation: ask to visit a film set,” Roxy suggests. That’s how we end up at Kualoa Ranch where 157 movies and TV shows have been filmed, like Jurassic Park and Jumanji. On our trips, there’s always one activity that requires a helmet and for this one, it’s riding in an ATV across the Ranch’s 6,000 acres.

Kualoa Ranch, home to filming locations from Jurassic Park, Jumanji and more

We’re captivated by the lush mountains, their mythology and the family history that has preserved this land since the mid-1800s. It’s stunningly beautiful and we are blown away by the lush landscape and views of the ocean.

Pioneer Saloon is the go-to for an authentic Hawaiian lunch plate.  Everyone, even our valet, tells us to go there and for good reason.  We choose garlic ahi and miso salmon plus rice and mac salad. Although we had the lunch plate for dinner, it was plenty and incredibly good. 

Hiking is a local pastime, and we dive right in.  Makapuu Lighthouse Trail is paved the whole way, leading to breathtaking views, though with no shade, it can get hot as you summit, but damn, the views are incredible! The Lanikai Pillbox Trail overlooks Lanikai Beach and the Mokulua (twin islands) — it's one of the most popular hikes and the most difficult, but we nailed it and rewarded ourselves with a stroll along the powdery white sands of Lanikai Beach.

Lanikai Pillbox Trail

Manoa Falls Trail, our favorite, is muddy but gorgeous and shaded for most of the way, with plenty of Instagram-worthy moments.

Then there’s Chinatown, a vibrant tapestry of culture and flavor. At Hawaii Dim Sum and Seafood Restaurant, we indulge in exquisite dumplings bursting with succulent shrimp and pork, alongside our beloved soup dumplings. The restaurant’s lively atmosphere, filled with locals and the clatter of chopsticks, reflects Chinatown’s rich history, dating back to the late 19th century. Once a bustling hub for immigrant families working on sugar plantations, the area is still bursting with energy and delicious flavors.

Another Roxy-Robin trip tradition is snorkeling and we soon discover how easy it is to swim with the sea turtles. As Roxy and I pull away from the dock in Honolulu with four other visitors, I can hear the Hawaii Five-O theme song play in my head. The soaring office buildings and blue water framed against a backdrop of mountains are eye-popping.

Anchoring down aboard one of Hawaii Ocean Charter’s boats, we put on our gear and jump in the warm water. Down below we see dozens of sea turtles, colorful fish and our guide unearths a squid that squirts black ink before happily wrapping around his hand.

Snorkeling off Honolulu with Hawaii Ocean Charters

That night, we discover Izakaya Tenkichi, a Japanese pub in Honolulu. We start with sake and work our way up to a bowl of sticky rice filled with a ridiculous amount of dazzling ruby red salmon roe. Then, we share small plates of grilled meat, maki rolls made with fresh fish and seasoned rice, and the groovy vibes. This is the place to have your birthday party, and there are many happening tonight.  

Izakaya Tenkichi

On our way back to the hotel, we stop for a Mana Swirl at Banán Kaimuki, a gluten-free and dairy-free treat made from bananas and topped with chocolate chips and macadamia butter. We enjoy it surrounded by local kids, soaking in the fresh night air.

On our last day, we could safely go into the gentle bay in front of our hotel. The water is sparkling blue and warm as bath water. The hotel earns five stars for a reason — their customer service is generous. The hotel manager gifts us a cabana and a late checkout, making up for the stormy start of our vacation. While I struggle to relax on the beach—Roxy teasing me that I’m “literally the worst beach person”—I’m just happy to be there.

Before our redeye, we swing by Nico’s on the pier for auction-fresh seafood.  We listen to a fantastic local band play Hawaiian country tunes, bringing everyone to their feet. The crowd knows the lyrics, proving that Hawaii has a rich culture all its own. Our last meal is a whole fried fish with Asian dipping sauces, which we devour with chopsticks, followed by one last Mai Tai.

Whether you’re indulging in local dishes with a Hawaiian-Japanese twist, exploring stunning beaches and scenic hikes, or immersing yourself in the distinctive culture, the island invites you to experience its Aloha spirit like a local.

Lanikai Beach