Bacalar, Mexico: Reflections, Relaxation, and Renewed Dreams
Our journey begins in Bacalar
Arriving in Bacalar, amidst a rainstorm sets the stage for an unforgettable escape. Our journey from the Tulum Airport, through a myriad of beach towns, and finally down a winding jungle road to Boca de Agua, takes two hours door to door. A sustainable boutique hotel designed in the style of a Mayan temple, the hotel, with its long wooden and stone staircases, seems to embrace the lush surroundings, where thick palms and ferns create an unrefined paradise.
Nestled in the enchanting Yucatán, Boca de Aqua offers a retreat that transcends the ordinary, harmonizing luxury with the wild beauty of nature. Surrounded by the untouched jungle and graced by the vibrant Laguna de Bacalar, Roxy and I receive exclusive access to explore its prehistoric rock formations and hidden cenotes. The treehouses, crafted with a blend of Japanese wabi-sabi aesthetics and Mexican Modernism, elevate the experience, allowing spider monkeys to swing nearby while the air fills with the songs of tropical birds. Here, the essence of the land is cherished, making every stay feel like a magical journey into the heart of nature.
The accommodations reflect a sophisticated playfulness, particularly in the treehouses that rise on stilts, seamlessly merging indoor and outdoor spaces. Designed by architect Frida Escobedo, these eco-friendly havens boast luxurious linens, air-conditioning, and thoughtful amenities like locally sourced minibars and organic coffee. We unwind by swimming in the serene on-site cenote or lounge on the spacious deck overlooking the lagoon, where relaxation is paramount and the only sounds are the whispers of the wind through the trees and the gentle lapping of water against the shore.
The culinary delights coming out of the hotel’s open air kitchen are a major attraction. Roxy, Brian and I indulge in red snapper paired with a delectable sauce of mashed plantains and perfectly grilled chicken. The guacamole, enhanced by a tomatillo sauce and served with freshly made corn chips, is luscious. To top it off, we enjoy refreshing margaritas, featuring fresh passionfruit and kiwi, with chili salt on the rims—sheer bliss after a long, bumpy ride from the airport.
New Year's Eve in Bacalar
It’s so quiet here — the perfect retreat after a busy holiday season. In the morning we hang out first at the shallow pool on hammocks and later at the lagoon on poofs. It is a breathtaking sight, with mangroves surrounding the crystal-clear waters. The water shimmers in shades of baby blue, and the white sand beneath adds to the ethereal ambiance. The calm lagoon reflects both the year behind us and the promise of the year ahead. Last night, I had a restorative sleep, filled with dreams that felt more vivid than any I can remember. I dreamt of riding a prehistoric rhino through the water—a striking omen, perhaps, guiding me to charge forward into the new year with confidence, armed with the experience and wisdom.
On New Year’s Eve, a monkey swings by Roxy’s treehouse. “Mom, you’ll never believe this, but I was in the outdoor shower washing my hair and I look up at the trees and there’s a monkey watching me! It was crazy!” she says. “It’s certainly wild out here,” I reply. We walk to the hotel’s lobby as the sun is setting and hear rustling in the trees. There is wildlife everywhere and at dusk, we can feel the jungle come alive. In the lobby, we meet my sweetheart, Brian for pictures before heading out to dinner in the town of Bacalar.
We dine in town at Finisterre Bacalar. The entertainment is a two-man reggae band. “Don’t worry, be happy” sets the tone. As the night unfolds, we are presented with vibrant hats, headbands, and noisemakers, along with small brown paper bags filled with green grapes—a Latin tradition symbolizing success and happiness. Eating twelve grapes at midnight, as the clock strikes twelve, is believed to bring good fortune.
Over fish grilled to perfection with fresh veggies, Roxy and I reminisce about our past New Year’s celebrations—burning “the old man” in Quito, watching fireworks burst across Santiago on the roof of the Singular Hotel, or partying until 2am with a family of Spaniards on a private beach at Song Saa in Cambodia.
As we approach the midnight hour, we begin to understand why they call Bacalar Pueblo Mágico. In the Zocalo, families gather, dancing under the twinkling Christmas lights to Mexican music, while food vendors serve up delicious juices and grilled chicken on long sticks. At 11:45, Roxy, exhausted from our holiday escapades, declares she is ready to go. We find our driver just in time to celebrate the stroke of midnight. As the clock chimes, we each eat our grapes and make our wishes, ringing in the new year.
Into the New Year
On the first day of the year, we celebrate by sailing through the vibrant lagoon and into the wider lake on a private boat. With cold Coronas in hand and sweet fruit at our side, we soak in the beauty around us, making it a perfect afternoon. After our adventure, we stroll through the town and enjoyed a fresh seafood meal at La Playita, right by the water’s edge.
Before we say goodbye to Bacalar and the shimmering lagoon, we enjoy sunrise yoga on the dock followed by swimming, paddleboarding, and a final walk through the jungle. This reset is crucial after the holiday hustle. Each moment spent in the lagoon offers a chance for natural beauty and contemplation on what it means to truly live. It feels like a day of indulgence—a day to fully embrace our surroundings before departing this paradise.
As our time at Boca de Aqua comes to a close, I reflect on the magic of this place. The combination of nature, culture, and culinary delights makes for an unforgettable start to the new year. Bacalar, with its serene lagoon and warm-hearted community, has etched itself into our hearts. Filled with gratitude for our restful nights and beautiful days, we feel ready to take on whatever comes next.
