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Kalahari Desert, Botswana: Swept Up In The Romance Of Jack’s Camp - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1dcc5846-30c2-4260-b85f-ed170a698b15/image2.jpg All Blogs - Kalahari Desert, Botswana: Swept Up In The Romance Of Jack’s Camp https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1bffba46-b9ab-4566-af2d-655c3916fa6f/image3.jpg All Blogs - Kalahari Desert, Botswana: Swept Up In The Romance Of Jack’s Camp https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/31e88158-3503-4484-b2c3-ed1c54b760d3/image4.jpg All Blogs - Kalahari Desert, Botswana: Swept Up In The Romance Of Jack’s Camp https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/cf8c9164-b826-4a45-a23a-7437f55bf45a/image5.jpg All Blogs - Kalahari Desert, Botswana: Swept Up In The Romance Of Jack’s Camp https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1a5649e9-661b-4bcc-b9d5-2695532e90d8/image6.jpg All Blogs - 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Lower Zambezi and Victoria Falls, Zambia: Wild Times On Safari We arrive in Lower Zambezi with friends from Santa Fe: Will, Marcellin, Charles, and Leigh. It takes a small prop plane and a boat to get to Sausage Tree Camp. I love to sit next to the pilot and see the land from the sky, but not all of my traveling companions feel the same way. Some of us need a flask of wine and a Valium or two. Woozy and finally on the ground, we grab our small duffle bags and backpacks. Everything has to squash down when you fly like this, no hard-sided luggage allowed. That’s it for a month-long trip. (Thank goodness they do laundry for you at the camps.) On a pontoon boat, we pass rafts of hippos standing in the river. They are all eyes and ears. Our guide tells us that hippos don’t have sweat glands, so they must soak to stay cool. However, they can live on land if there’s plenty of shade. Here in the Lower Zambezi, they are everywhere and mostly in the water. Humans can only hear 20% of the sounds they make, which fluctuate between a very loud hum and an ear-shattering snort. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/26164d49-2528-4af9-b350-33c29e063913/LivingRoom.jpg All Blogs - Lower Zambezi and Victoria Falls, Zambia: Wild Times On Safari We have to be escorted to our room by a scout. Apparently, there are elephants and buffalo in the area and often on the path between the main lodge and the huts. One snap of a branch in front of a mother and her baby, and we could be toast. When I look around, I don’t see any wildlife. “I can’t believe we have to have an escort every time we want to go back to our room,” I say. “Robin, we’re in Africa, not on Cerrillos Road in Santa Fe,” Will reminds me. The rooms are elegant white canvas tents with a spot-on view of the river. There’s a separate sitting area, a bedroom with sliding doors out to a private plunge pool, and an enormous bathroom. I could live here comfortably forever—that is, until the rainy season when the river rises, and the entire camp could get swept away. After tea, we go out for a drive and see a leopard perched in a tree. She is glamorous and green-eyed. Our guide tells us that the leopard has held this territory for some time and that she feels queenly with us watching her. I look through my binoculars and see a dead impala in the tree next to her. The leopard’s spotted coat is immaculate. She’s a cunning and clean killer. On our walking safari, our guide tells us dozens of fun facts. Giraffes on the move are called a “journey of giraffes.” If they’re standing still together, the group is called a “tower of giraffes.” A full-grown giraffe’s heart is two feet long and weighs 20 pounds. Elephants eat 200 to 400 kilograms (about 882 pounds!) of grass daily but only digest 40% of that food. We examine their dung and see undigested palm nuts that the baboons love to eat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/cf4fad31-89af-4919-8c38-144078f259ad/ele.jpg All Blogs - Lower Zambezi and Victoria Falls, Zambia: Wild Times On Safari A BBC documentary on wild dogs is being filmed. We meet the crew who are using drones to find the packs. We follow their directions and come upon a den of dogs. Painted black, tan, and cream, they play like our puppies back home but are vicious hunters and can take down a large impala. Although they are an endangered species, the wild dogs here are protected by park rangers and they thrive. We count 21 adults and 12 puppies. In this part of Zambia, we take the “hippo highways” to the spot game. Turns out the hippos like to take the same routes and over time a well-worn path is formed as hippos move from water to feeding grounds on land. One morning, we are walking in the bush and come across an enormous bull shaking an Acacia Tree (also known as a Winter Thorn) for “elephant biscuits.” We keep our distance as orange seed-filled pods flutter to the ground. The bull vacuums them up with his trunk. Our guide tells us that in the village, mothers give elephant biscuits to their babies for rattles. Sausage Tree knows how to delight its guests. One morning, the camp staff surprises us with brunch in the bush. The chef is frying eggs over an open fire along with bacon, sausage, and chicken. The staff delivers service beyond any I’ve ever experienced in the world. Two examples: We are treated to a lavish buffet served under a canape in the shallow water of the river. During one of our nights there, our enormous bathtub was filled with floating candles and the word “ENJOY” was spelled out in flowers in front of it. Just stunning. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669224286252-1QSQCVHUFJFCR6PESZUI/RiverLunch.jpg All Blogs - Lower Zambezi and Victoria Falls, Zambia: Wild Times On Safari https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669224285644-TEAHAL5PMXQ9P7XJCKZX/SausageTreeBreakfast.jpg All Blogs - Lower Zambezi and Victoria Falls, Zambia: Wild Times On Safari https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669224291809-HHI2PZD5H4P45SAFFRT3/SurpriseTub.jpg All Blogs - Lower Zambezi and Victoria Falls, Zambia: Wild Times On Safari https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/7e7e9724-ce68-47dc-bc85-36e64c47844d/Rhino.jpg All Blogs - Lower Zambezi and Victoria Falls, Zambia: Wild Times On Safari A few days later, we fly to Livingstone and check into Tongabezi. The lobby has framed articles about my friend William Ruck, who sadly passed away from an untimely death. His legacy lives on in the paradise he envisioned. Brian and I feel like Tarzan and Jane in the Treehouse Room. It’s totally tucked away and completely open to the river. There’s an old fashioned clawfoot bathtub and outdoor shower, romantic bed draped with mosquito netting and beautiful furnishings. Agatha and Lizzy take care of our every whim. They are kindhearted mothers and the abandoned child in me feels nurtured and safe. We complete our “Big Five” list of animals and finally see a “crash” of rhinos. Protected 24 hours a day from poachers by armed scouts, they are utterly beautiful to me. Together with Brian, we stand in awe of their tough grey skin, tiny eyes, and massive horns. “How can anyone kill these incredible animals?” I ask Brian. He hugs me, feeling my soft heart and deep appreciation for all that we’ve experienced on this incredible trip. In the evening, a local choir performs traditional songs in four-part harmony. They are marvelously entertaining. The following day, children of various ages from the nearby Tongabezi School sing for us about living in the village and how much they love their mothers. With a full heart, I walk to the camp’s garden and pick lettuce and veggies for my lunch. Mishick, who manages it, tells me that he attended the school and went on to study agriculture at college. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669224663851-XJ8RN149SN025PYZB2JT/Helicopter.jpg All Blogs - Lower Zambezi and Victoria Falls, Zambia: Wild Times On Safari https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669224666365-VPPHJ2JLPDM5NS45UZUK/Gorge.jpg All Blogs - Lower Zambezi and Victoria Falls, Zambia: Wild Times On Safari https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669224672444-39KXV80PSL3NA9XZRAE0/VictoriaFalls.jpg All Blogs - Lower Zambezi and Victoria Falls, Zambia: Wild Times On Safari https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669224669992-9KID7OBWMMQHY32FR7A0/VictoriaFalls2.jpg All Blogs - Lower Zambezi and Victoria Falls, Zambia: Wild Times On Safari https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669224993074-UNYC6PIA17W49ABABPT0/FarmFresh.jpg All Blogs - Lower Zambezi and Victoria Falls, Zambia: Wild Times On Safari https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669224989832-FGDNYDAE83T6FFP06SCZ/BeachPicnic.jpg All Blogs - Lower Zambezi and Victoria Falls, Zambia: Wild Times On Safari https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669224991444-S8BRX4D85OTJYBGS5M6P/lizzy%26agatha.jpg All Blogs - Lower Zambezi and Victoria Falls, Zambia: Wild Times On Safari https://www.wonderroadtravel.com/blog/south-luangwa-national-park-zambia-dreams-do-come-true monthly 0.5 2026-09-25 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669220516615-O7BS7UXXK45DGH8LZ9I2/drink.jpg All Blogs - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Dreams Do Come True - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/2381c78c-19fe-43d5-bb02-add3124a5cbf/Chamalandu.jpg All Blogs - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Dreams Do Come True I had a dream to go to Africa. It started thirty years ago when I met William Ruck Keene, the owner of Tongabezi Camp in Zambia, and Ralph Bousfield, the owner of Jack's Camp in Botswana. We were in Big Sur, California attending "The Spiritual Path to Love" workshop at the Esalen Institute. The three of us, along with a dozen other strangers, wanted to heal our emotional wounds and learn how to build lasting and loving relationships. As one often does in such a setting, we all became fast friends. After the workshop, Ralph and Will hoped to spread the word about their safari camps to adventurous people up and down the coast and across the Southwest. I drove them to Los Angeles and hosted an open house so they could tell their stories to my friends. My heart leaped at their vivid descriptions of Victoria Falls and the Kalahari Desert. I imagined meeting meerkats and seeing hippos. Before we said goodbye, I promised Ralph and Will I would visit their camps one day. Thanks to my partner Brian, that day finally came true in September this year. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/bcd05abe-accf-47a0-bcb6-f7c5f1d068b8/image3.jpg All Blogs - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Dreams Do Come True Brian and I are deep in the bush without cell service or Wi-Fi. We are cut off from the outside world so we can better connect to the land, the animals, and the people of Zambia. Everyone here dresses to match the surroundings. We all wear shades of sandy beige, leafy green, or bark brown. Black and blue attract the tsetse flies, so no one wears those colors. We all look like employees at Disney's Animal Kingdom. Our friend Christina, who spent much of her life in Zambia and lives in our hometown of Santa Fe, New Mexico, is the owner of Africa Calls. She has planned our three-week adventure, beginning with South Luangwa National Park. The Bushcamp Company operates six secluded, intimate camps designed to provide an unrivaled wildlife experience. Climbing into an open-sided Toyota Land Cruiser, we wind our way through the park en route to Chamilandu, our first bush camp. Our driver stops the vehicle five minutes into our journey to allow a female leopard to cross the road. She has a dead baboon in her jaws and is dragging it under her body. The baboon's family tries to intimidate the leopard. They scream and howl for their dead brother. The leopard stays cool in the face of the explosive emotion around her. She is hungry and in control as she disappears with her kill. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/3a37ded6-75fa-45e2-8227-f4863219b10b/image1.jpg All Blogs - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Dreams Do Come True We veer off the main road and start to bounce in our seats. After the rainy season, the ground dries in huge chunks. "How are you enjoying your "African Massage?" our driver asks while navigating the poked surface towards a pride of lions feasting on a hippopotamus. There are four lionesses and four cubs surrounding the kill. The male lion is nowhere to be found. The lionesses wear the hippo's blood like its warpaint. During the magic hour, impala leap across the plains, and elephants lumber on the river's edge. They stay close to each other to protect their wee babies. We stop the vehicle to watch them. Our guide and scout pull up a small table that fits perfectly on the hood. Gibson gin and tonics are mixed, and snacks are passed around. We drink our sundowners as the sky turns fire-engine red, and the hippos yawn and make large moaning sounds in the river that spreads before us. When the sky goes dark, and the air has cooled, we start up the engine and spread blankets across our laps. Our scout scans the bush for signs of nocturnal life with a giant handheld spotlight. He stands next to our driver and swings the light from left to right, catching giraffes over here and porcupines over there. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669233039641-QUOKP77DL5K988SP7VWY/Elephants.jpg All Blogs - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Dreams Do Come True https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669217925712-TMOESKF47024PO13Q5EC/image6.jpg All Blogs - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Dreams Do Come True https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/927d3889-e239-4c83-b365-5c865140908b/Sunset.jpg All Blogs - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Dreams Do Come True At dawn, we watch the sunrise, sip coffee, and eat a bowl of porridge. Then, off we go on a walking safari. We learn how to identify various types of scat and discover the wonderous world of fungus termites. "The queen lives up to 15 years and lays 1,000 eggs a day. She's as big as a man's ring finger," our guide tells us. Elephants, giraffes, warthogs, and waterbucks who stand watch like sentinels, are close by but at a safe distance. It's exhilarating to step on the same ground they walk. My favorite animal is the warthog. It's pretty/ugly with a long bumpy face adorned with ring-like tusks. The warthog's disproportionate head hangs low to the ground as it eats on bended knees. It's a busy animal, comfortable feeding next to the impalas and baboons who live together with the warthog in harmony. On the opposite end of the spectrum, the zebra is the most beautiful African animal. I never really noticed before, but their stripes go all the way down to their hooves. They have big, fuzzy ears that are downright cute. We are lucky to see so many babies with their mothers. I'm smitten by their innocence and vulnerability. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669219366245-8Y98Z1N2EM540VZWYYB7/Warthog.jpg All Blogs - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Dreams Do Come True https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669219403108-JPAU657VC5W3I2BC38SP/Kudu.jpg All Blogs - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Dreams Do Come True https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669219366122-4O86UW2O0RGSF88N8J66/WildDog.jpg All Blogs - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Dreams Do Come True https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669219400899-9TE6N01XWEBROFQFVZ8U/Hyenna.jpg All Blogs - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Dreams Do Come True https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/4c7e57eb-820a-4135-82b4-e2f66f6a4179/LeopardTree.jpg All Blogs - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Dreams Do Come True We check the site where the lionesses have been feasting on the hippo, and the carcass is nearly clean. Vultures wait impatiently on the ground and in the trees. A lioness gets so annoyed with their presence that she kills one of the scavengers to send a message. The menacing birds back off as the stench of the rotting carcass fills the warming air. Their turn will come soon enough. The bush camps are rustic, intimate and open-air. Community is created easily over sundowners, teatime, and the three scrumptious meals served each day expertly. There are never more than six to eight other people joining us at the dining room table. Over dinner, we listen to each other's answers to questions like, "What was the best thing you saw today…What is your favorite animal?" https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/2d50da9d-c87a-4227-aaaf-eec4cdddb421/Lunch.jpg All Blogs - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Dreams Do Come True At lunch, we meet Beth, Ben, Rob, and Chris. They are seasoned safari goers, and their favorite country is Zambia. They are thoroughly British--loving animals more than people. Beth and Ben's wedding was in Horse & Hound Magazine. She shows us one of the published wedding photos where she is galloping on her horse in a shallow river, with her white wedding dress flying behind her. It's romantic and rugged all at once. Brian and I love listening to their stories, and in the evening, Rob tells us of his father's harrowing escape from Nazi Germany in 1937 and how, against all odds, he made it to England as a young man. When I ask him if he was raised Jewish, Rob replies, "No, I was raised English." After dinner, Brian is the game warden of our room, catching crickets as long as his ring finger and tiny, moss-colored frogs. He uses a bar glass to release the misplaced creatures gently outside our room. There are no windows or doors in our beautiful hut. We climb into our king-size bed, pull the mosquito netting together, and sleep as peacefully as the baby baboons in the trees all around us. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/4bb08573-e327-436a-9a49-915f9aaa7433/Robin_Brian.jpg All Blogs - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Dreams Do Come True Brian and I love walking safaris. Around every corner, there's a mystery and then a surprise. At KaPamba, our second bush camp, we watch a herd of elephants cross the river. To avoid being trampled by them, we cross the river to the opposite bank to make our way. Our guide Charles asks us to take off our shoes. We carefully wade in the water. Brian says, “Are there crocodiles in here?” “No, but stay in a single file line because there is quicksand,” Charles warns. Over the next eight days, we move from camp to camp, ending at Kuyenda, where Christina’s legendary stepfather Phil was an owner and guide. There, we meet Wendy Dunn, head chef for The Bushcamp Company. She’s been doing the rounds, teaching the kitchen staff how to make delicious food with vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free options. I've benefited greatly, being treated to melt-in-your-mouth orange sponge cake topped with warm orange sauce, buttery scones, crepes, and even pizza—all gluten-free. On our last night in the bush, we are surprised to see a small barbecue and a bar set up in the shallow water. Brian and I suddenly realize that this sundowner setting is for us. We take off our shoes and wade in to find camp chairs facing the sunset. Elephants have gathered at the water's edge, and a hyena slinks on the banks as we drink gin and tonics and eat skewers of pork sausage and pineapple, grilled chicken drumettes, and crispy yucca chips with sweet red chili sauce. It's so romantic that I feel like I've received a rose and a special one-on-one date with "The Bachelor." https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669999177525-OQ12E563IGWIDVE7M535/blog-new.jpg All Blogs - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Dreams Do Come True https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/1669220518531-457C5PF2YXO1NIAEVE9K/RiverDrinks.jpg All Blogs - South Luangwa National Park, Zambia: Dreams Do Come True https://www.wonderroadtravel.com/blog/the-basque-country-on-the-border-of-great-taste monthly 0.5 2026-09-25 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/61b0bc795b231031e921d930/eba31baf-636d-4707-a88f-906745e65ce2/Basque-Country---Lead-pic.jpg All Blogs - The Basque Country: On The Border of Great Taste - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. 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